I’ve been charging full steam ahead since the start of the year, immersed in writing the latest Accidental Alchemist novel, so it was amazing to slow down and recharge on a glorious trip to the Highlands of Scotland. It was a big birthday celebration with my childhood best friend. Leslie and I haven’t lived near each other in decades, and really wanted to do something special together, so we left our husbands at home and booked a trip to Scotland!
Scotland is one of my favorite places on the planet. I’ve been traveling there since I was 10 years old, when I spent the summer in Edinburgh and Highlands and Islands while my professor mom did research for a nonfiction book on Scottish Crofters.
I've been back to Scotland many times, including studying abroad at the University of Edinburgh during college, but I haven't been back to the Outer Hebrides in decades. Leslie had never been to Scotland, so it was wonderful to show it to her—and I’m pleased to report I got her hooked!
We spent the majority of this trip in the Highlands and Islands, the northwestern part of Scotland filled with amazing history and people, rugged landscapes, and wild, windy weather.
In this post: A few highlights from the the Isle of Lewis and Harris in the Outer Hebrides
At the Callanish Stones (older than Stonehenge!) on the Isle of Lewis in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.
The Outer Hebrides are Scotland’s Western Isles, are a remote chain of islands accessible only via ferry. It took two hours and forty minutes on the Caledonian MacBrayne “CalMac” ferry to reach Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.
Stornoway is the largest town in the Outer Hebrides, with a population is just under 7,000. The seaside town had a cozy feel, and even in August, the whole island felt remote. Visiting the famous Callanish stones—which are a series of stone circles, not just one!—felt like stepping back in time.
On the cliffs of the Butt of Lewis, the northernmost point of the Isle of Lewis in Scotland, nearly getting blown over by the wind.
Once arriving on the island, it was the scent of peat that brought all the memories crashing back. And also the feeling of the wind—we’re wearing these knit caps and jackets in August.
Windswept on the northernmost tip of Lewis.
When my mom was a graduate student, she lived for a year in a small village not too far from here, so she wasn’t surprised when we told her about the weather. I’m so glad I was able to connect with old family friends my mom kept in her life after she left, including the younger generations who are still in the Highlands and Islands—and learning Gaelic!
Gaelic is the first language on public signage in the Outer Hebrides. The Isle of Harris and the Isle of Lewis are two distinct regions of one land mass, and this is the sign crossing over into the more mountainous Harris.
Did you spot the cliff sheep behind the sign?
I wasn’t up for driving on the islands, but luckily we found a terrific tour company that takes small group across Scotland. Thanks to Liam from Rabbies for the wonderful tour of Outer Hebrides!
Lewis Chessmen statue on the Isle of Lewis, near the Uig Sands where the mysterious Lewis Chessmen were found two centuries ago. The full story of the chessmen is for another day, as they deserve a post of their own!
Uig Sands, Ardroil Beach, Isle of Lewis.
The Highlands and Islands felt somehow more complete after seeing some Highland Coos (a.k.a. Highland Cows).
I brought two notebooks with me, for journaling and book research, and I filled dozens of pages of each. After additional time in Inverness and the Isle of Skye, we ended our Scotland adventure by heading south on the train to visit Edinburgh, a city with a magic of its own.
Working on a new novel set in Scotland from this perfect writing nook in our Edinburgh rental flat.
I’m already eager to go back.